4. Ferrata Roghel (2,560 m)

Difficulty: 4
Total rating: 3

 

Via ferrata in detail: 95% steel ropes and steps, 5% exposed track
Total duration: ca. 4 hours
Difference of altitude in ascent: 1,000 meters
Duration ascent: ca. 2 ½ hours
Climbing time: ca. 1 ½ hours – 220 meters
Duration descent: ca. 2 ½ hours

Download the tour as pdf file

Arrival and starting point

Across Passo Monte Croce, to the well tagged junction into the Val Grande (big Sign: Bagni di Valgrande - ca.8 km from the pass). Across the slim tarred road until the Rifugio Lunelli hut, where the road ends.

Difficulty and general Information

Difficult and on some parts very cliffy Via Ferrata (partially arm power required). The rock quality mostly is beyond good. If there are more alpinists, you should be aware of the elevated possibility of thrown object hazard. Steel ropes in bad shape and lager distance between the bolting, require a good foo technique and alpine experience. The trail can`t be considered as an individual mountain tour, because there is no easy, short descent and in every case, you have to continue by making the Ferrata Cengia Gabriella. In case of tempests and intense rain you should absolutely avoid this route (elevated danger of rock fall or landslides).

Ascent

From Rifugio Lunelli hut follow the indication towards Rifugio Berti hut. Right down below the hut you have to cross a stream. From the bridge, you go directly to the left on a well visible trail (no signs and any indication) to the slightly larger trail Nr. 152 (marked). Follow this one, until a sign (Ferrata Roghel) shows you how to continue. The trail marked with red points leads steeply uphill at the beginning of the Via Ferrata.

Route-Info

There are many way more beautiful Via Ferrate than the Via Ferata Roghel. Located in the surroundings of the Monte Popera, for the well trained and alpine experienced mountain climber it’s tough challenge in the middle of a great landscape. The trail ends at the “Forcelle tra le Guglie”.

Characteristic and technical details

A difficult via ferrata which is consistently secured with fixed ropes, partly very steep passages (sometimes with step facilities). The cable rope is flexible and loose, the anchors are a long way away from each other’s, which is awkward for the backer. This ascent requires a good climbing technique and solid alpine experience. A fall in the untrustworthy rope can have disastrous consequences. The rock is often crumbly and splintery, which means a higher risk of thrown object hazard for the followed alpinists.

Descent in direction Cengia Gabriella

On the back side of the Forcella tra le Guglie follow the fixed rope on the left to the west flank of the Prima Guglia di Stallate and further through the rubble ravine. These leads to the deepest point of the path (2.300m) in the high valley of the Ciadin di Stallata (ca. 240m in ascent, 45 minutes). Slightly underneath there is the Bivacco Battaglione Cadore (2.219m).

5. Cengia Gabriella (2,470m)

Difficulty: 1
Total rating: 3

 

Duration: ca. 3.5 hours
Difference of altitude: 500 meters
Ascent duration: ca. 2.5 hours
Climbing time: ca. 2.5 hours
Ascent: 200 meters
Descent: ca. 2.5 hours, 500 meters

Download the tour as pdf file

Difficulty and general information

The Via Ferrata Cengia Gabriella leads from the east- and south flank of the Monte Giralba di Sotto to the west wall. As a day excursion from the Rifugio Lunelli hut across the Ferrata Roghel and the Cengia Gabriella to the Rifugio Carducci hut a very long trip, this requires absolutely a head for heights and stable weather. Along the route you have to conquer two towards ascents.

Ascent

From the deepest point (2.300m) in the high valley of the Ciadin di Stellata leads a good visible and marked trace (signs and arrows on the cliff) through the grass-grown cirque and to the begin of the Via Ferrata (ca. 100m difference of altitude, 20 minutes.)

Route-Information

After arrived at the deepest point in the Cengia Gabriella (2.270m), ascent to the highest point (2.450m) of the path of the Monte Giralba di Sotto. At the end of the band, steel ropes lead on exposed steps in the rock to a rubbish channel, which is often filled with snow until late summer. Steel cables facilitate the descent to the food of the Monte Giralba di Sopra. Across the hiking path through de Val Giralba Valley you will reach the Rifugio Carducci Hut (2.297m.)

Characteristic and technical details

This Ferrata in an awesome ambience is little frequented. All exposed passages are well secured with fixed ropes.

Further from the Rifugio Carducci hut

Across the Val Giralba Valley or passing the Passo Giralba and further to the Rifugio Comici hut and descent to the Val Fiscalina Valley.


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