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Via ferrata in detail: 65% steel ropes, 35% path and exposed tracks, some ladders and a rope bridge
Total duration: ca. 8.5 hours
Difference of altitude: 1,720 meters in ascent, 740 meters in descent
Duration ascent: ca. 1.5 hours
Climbing time: ca. 5 hours – 600 meters
Duration descent: ca. 2 hours
Download the tour as pdf file
After Dobbiaco, take the turnoff to the left, through the Val di Landro Valley, passing Carbonin until Cimabanche (Province border) and continue until Hotel Ospitale (1475m, parking space at the end of the road).
Via Ferrata above Cortina, which in the described direction is rarely done. The ascent is long lasting and requires a good physical condition, good footwork and good weather conditions. From beginning of the tour in Ospitale until Forcella Bassa you are mostly alone, after the deviation Son Forcio Rio Gere there is a lot of oncoming traffic.
From Ospitale (path number 203) you step down into the riverbed to cycling road Cortina-Dobbiaco, cross the river (bridge) and you follow the rampant forest track for ca. 250 meters uphill. At the information sign “Ferrata Ivano Dibona” you follow the trail to the left, across thick forest uphill (you pass old bunkers) until Col di Stombe (2040 m). Along the flat ridge and over a rampant rubbish cirque (only trail signs) you reach a ridge (2330 m, ascent to the Via Ferrata)
The ascent (number 203) until the Col die Stombe and the following gravel pipe towards the access are very rampant. Steel savings lead to the impressive war bunkers of the Zurlon (not far from there in an angle there is the Peak book). Further to the Forcella Bassa (2410m), across the deviation towards the Rifugio Son Forca hut and across a really cliffy gravel tube towards the Forcella Alta. Across very exposed traverse bands of the south wall of the Vecchio del Forame you arrive at the Bivacco Ricovero Buffa di Perro and to the Forcola Paedon (2.770m), across short wood bridges and nice wood stairs to the Cresta Bianca and shortly downwards to the Forcella Grande (2.870m, side road of the path number 233 from Graon del Forame, access to the Ferrata Renè de Pol possible). Now starts the most difficult part of the ascent.
Further to the turnoff “Cristallino d’Ampezzo” (3.008m, side trip to the peak possible). Continue to the Forcella Staunies (2.920m) and the Rifugio Lorenzi hut (descent across two ladders and crossing a 30m long rope bridge).
This tour is more an alpine excursion with many souths facing traverses and regarding the physical state a big challenge. Along the path you will see many impressive ruins of the World War I. The ferrata per se is simple, exposed passages are saved with steel ropes, divers ladders and bridges (especially in the last part descending to the Rifugio Lorenzi hut) make the traverse of channels and the exposed passages easier. In the first part of the ascent the steel ropes are a little bit shabby, starting from the Forcella Grande (2.870m) until the Rifugio Lorenzi the hooks and ropes are new. Problems with the orientation can occurrence in the steep access channel (rarely steps) and at the descent after the turnoff to the “Rio Gere – Son Forcia” and the steeply grove to the Forcella Alta (2.460m). Trails and paths are mostly good signed. A red-white mark and red dots are helping to find the orientation. In the summer months, there is no drinking water along the route.
From the Rifugio Lorenzi hut descent by the “historical” cable car to the Rifugio Son Forca hut (2.210m) and further on the path number 203 in western direction. You walk through the Val Padeon Valley (large forest road), until you arrive at to the turnoff to the Via Ferrata (indication “Ferrata Ivano Dibona”). You follow the way of ascent back to the starting point (Ospitale).
Via ferrata in detail 100% steel ropes, some ladders and a rope bridge
Total duration: ca. 3.5 hours
Difference of altitude: 90 meters in ascent, 790 meters in descent
From Cortina d‘Ampezzo in direction to the Passo Tre Croci until the valley station of the chair lift San Forcia. Drive-up with the chair lift and further with the “retro” cable car to the Forcella Staunies (2.919m).
This short via ferrata crossing the Cristallino d’Ampezzo (3.008m) can be combined with the Via Ferrata Marin Bianchi (Cristallo di Mezzo).
The ferrata starts directly at the mountain station (indications) and brings you to the long rope bridge Ponte del Cristallo. Further on ladders to the crest and secured by cable ropes to the turnoff to the Cristallino d’Ampezzo (side trip to the peak possible).
Across the Via Ferrata back to the starting point. Otherwise you can descent at the turnoff across steep cliff steps on the west side of the Cristallino to the Forcella Grande (2.870m). There you leave the sentiero Dibona, you go in direction southeast and further trough a steeply cirque (attention of snow rests) until you arrive at the valley station of the cable car.
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