9. Torre di Toblin – Ladder Via Ferrata (2,617 m)

Difficulty: 3
Total rating: 2

 

Via ferrata in detail: 50% steel ropes, 50% ladders
Total duration: ca. 4.5 hours
Difference of altitude: 550 meters
Duration ascent: ca. 1 ¾ hours
Climbing time: ca. ¾ hours – 110 meters
Duration descent: ca. 2 hours
Orientation: north, east

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Arrival and starting point

To Dobbiaco, further on the left in direction Cortina d’Ampezzo till Carbonin. There turn left to Misurina. Near the locality turn left and across the toll road to the parking place at the Rifugio Auronzo hut. Reachable also by foot from the Val Fiscalina Valley or Val Campo di Dentro Valley.

Difficulty and technical details

Short, very steep and exposed climb, mostly secured with ladders. The bottoms of the ladders are sometimes almost overhanging, so arm strength is required. Because of its length, the via ferrata is ideal for practising and honing your skills before you make the leap to more difficult climbs. Experience, arm strength and a head for heights are necessary for the especially exposed sections!

Access

From the Rifugio Auronzo hut go along the wide gravel path to the Sella Paterno, then continue to the Rifugio Locatelli hut (2405m). The red marked ascent to the Torre di Toblin begins behind the hut. Cross it on the southern side to reach the start of the climb at the foot of the north face.

Route-Information

An extremely attractive and demanding climb through the north face of the Torre di Toblin. Not too long and above all hugely enjoyable. If the via ferrata would be longer, it would be classified as difficult. At its current length, it offers a varied practice climb for experienced mountaineers in a spectacular setting. Fitter climbers can combine the climb with the Via ferrata Innerkofler on the Monte Paterno.

Characteristic and technical details

A short, extremely steep via ferrata, completely secured with steel ropes and ladders.

Descent

From the summit across the north-east side (Ferrata Cappellano Hosp, marked with red triangles). Some unsecured, exposed sections, partly easy climbing, partly exposed. The descent is mostly well-secured with steel ropes, 45 minutes to the Rifugio Locatelli hut.


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