25. Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella – Tofana di Rozes (3,225 m)

Difficulty: 4
Total rating: 3

 

Via ferrata in detail: 55% steel ropes, 5% ladders, 30% path, 10% gallery
Total duration: ca. 8 hours
Difference of altitude: 1,290 meters
Duration ascent: ca. 1 ¼ hours
Climbing time: ca. 4 hours, 670 meters ascent, 120 meters descent
Duration descent: ca. 2 ¼ hours
Orientation: west

Download the tour as pdf file

Arrival und staring point

To Dobbiaco, there turn left and further through the Val di Landro valley. 14 km before Cortina take the turnoff towards Rifugio Dibona (parking lot), at the beginning the road is still paved.

Difficulties and general information

The long crossings in the western wall are exposed to the rain and the melting water. Until the Tre Dita is barely notable a gain of altitude. The gain of altitude itself occurs in the higher parts of the wall, where you also notice the length of the ascent. On the bands and the boulder terraces of the western wall, also during the early summer, you run into snow. Also, in autumn after the first snowfall the ascent can get tricky. It’s recommendable to bring an ice pick along.

Ascent

From Rifugio Dibona hut (2.053m) you walk on a broad path into the direction of the Tofana south wall. At the valley station of the supply railway to the Rifugio Giussani hut to the left (mark number 442) and abrupt uphill through a dwarf pine hillside straight under the south wall. Following the trail Nr.404 to the left until a road junction (indication marking). Then to the right uphill to the beginning of the Castellato gallery.

Route-Information

Very long and challenging mountain tour which requires a big portion of mountain experience, weather knowledge and excellent physical condition. The long ribbons are well saved in the exposed passages. In the steep parts, the rock is handy, the steel ropes are new and perfectly tensioned. At the prominent cliff formation Tre Dita (2.680m) you can interrupt the tour and scale down to the Rifugio Giussani hut (sign at the rock wall). Otherwise further on the right to the big amphitheatre. A vertical upswing requires arm strength, then the steel ropes lead across cliff ramps to the exit at the north-west ridge (3.027m). Further on the normal path to the summit of the Tofana.

Characteristic and technical details

Via ferrata with long and flat walking passages. Two ladders lead to the 500 meter long and absolutely dark „Castelletto“ gallery (torch light necessary). All exposed passages are well saved with thick steel ropes. In the last part of the ferrata are the most difficulties.

Descent

From the peak across the normal way back, then follow the blue marking downwards to the Rifugio Giussani hut. Further on the path number 403 back to the starting point.


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